In setting apart this chunk of the land as the world's first national park, Congress preserved a part of the west. Things commonplace in the frontier became unique to Yellowstone as homesteaders settled and developed the land. The southeast part of Yellowstone holds a spot in the backcountry thirty miles from any road - the most isolated place in the contiguous forty-eight states.
Saturday, August 15, 2009
Yellowstone, Part II: Nature Preserved
In setting apart this chunk of the land as the world's first national park, Congress preserved a part of the west. Things commonplace in the frontier became unique to Yellowstone as homesteaders settled and developed the land. The southeast part of Yellowstone holds a spot in the backcountry thirty miles from any road - the most isolated place in the contiguous forty-eight states.
Sunday, August 9, 2009
Foon!
During the trip, I finally field-tested the "foon" Zack Van Brunt so kindly gave me in response to my Sporks? post. It worked well for both my soupy entrée and for the chocolate
Monday, August 3, 2009
Yellowstone, Part I: Thermal Features
Friday, July 31, 2009
The Tetons
Monday, July 27, 2009
Ponds, Peaks, and Pickles
Tuesday, July 21, 2009
The Confluence
This past weekend, the 16th and 17th of July, James and I decided to brave the outdoors once more and take a hike through the beautiful Roosevelt area to Hellroaring Creek. While I was in the backcountry office to obtain a permit for the confluence of the Yellowstone River and Hellroaring Creek the ranger repeatedly advised me to take the bridge to cross the river instead of fording it because of “high waters” or something like that. Traveling to the bridge would tack on an extra 3 (plus or minus .2) miles, but such is the price for safety.
We left the dorms at around 10:45 in the AM, and had immediate good fortune when a family from California picked us up after only about 5 minutes of waiting. They dropped us off near our destination, at which point we caught a ride from a Roosevelt employee to our trailhead. Our next adventure then began.
It began very well with some immediate downhill traveling. It was hotter than we were used to here in Yellowstone, likely much cooler than Texas, but that was compensated by the beauty all around us. We began by making good time even though we had to stop for more water breaks than in the past. The time started moving more slowly as our destination became farther and farther away (remember that out-of-the-way bridge?) We made it to our “secluded” campsite out in the middle of the backcountry, only to find out that right across the river were two fishermen who really liked staring at us as we ate our meals. Thankfully, our tent was pitched up an incline out of sight of our neighbors.
We slept soundly and then ate a breakfast of tasty pancakes (which got tastier as James became a better chef.) We packed up camp and began our long trek back to the trailhead. After only a little bit of walking, we decided to find a nice shallow spot in the creek and ford. James picked a nice looking spot, we prepared ourselves by taking off shoes and whatnot, grabbed our walking sticks (a third leg), and began crossing.
The water was so freaking cold. It started out shallow and got much deeper in the middle. It was swift moving to the point that I fell in and barely managed to catch myself on a rock. My underwear got wet (a testament to how deep the water was), and I was altogether miserable. I got mad at James for “making me cross that river,” and felt horrible for a few minutes. I got over it. Our detour cut hours off of the return journey, which kind of made up for my moment of terror. That downhill part at the beginning of the hike turned into an uphill part at the end, but at the final end of everything I felt like I accomplished a whole lot during that weekend.
I was rewarded when we got back to Canyon with a tasty chicken sandwich, took a nice long shower, ate more dinner, and had a caldera (chocolate tasty goodness cake) from the dining room. In retrospect I had a really great time.
Sunday, July 19, 2009
Hikes
Thursday, July 9, 2009
Near Death Experiences
While James was away climbing mountains last weekend I had ample opportunity to rest, so I jumped at the chance since it may have very well been my last (James has planned a big trip for virtually every break from work.) After my relaxing weekend I was loath to go back to work but knew that it was what was necessary to continue living here in Yellowstone. It was the fourth of July, which did not improve my attitude toward my job. After about an hour working at Lodge Favorites, which is quite possibly the worst place to work since it usually has a line out the door, I began to come down with a massive headache. I was working with a new employee and would have felt bad leaving early so I did not tell my manager in the hopes that it would go away. Once I realized that my health was in a steady decline I guiltily (and somewhat happily) left work. An hour later, without the luxury of a thermometer, I had a fever of unknown intensity, and the next day it was worse. I called in sick for the next two days since it appeared that my illness would not be going away in that time. After three days of misery (achy, high fever, intense headache) I finally felt good enough to go back to work.
I worked for two days, and then it was our weekend again! My shift on Wednesday was from 6 – 11 AM, I took a shower, and then James and I were on our way to the Bridge Bay Marina. I told James that I wanted to rest since I was sick only days ago, so we rented (for free) a rowboat and James proceeded to row me around the marina. James had wanted to row me all the way out to Stevenson Island, three miles from shore, but the wind was so strong that it was not allowed. Rowing was easy for James at the beginning of our adventure but, as the gusts grew stronger, it became increasingly difficult. We almost made it back to our dock, but a particularly strong gust of wind blew us into the wrong one. A “rescue” became necessary, and then we left.
It took us a little while to find a ride back to Canyon, but we were eventually picked up by an acquaintance of James’s from the University of Texas. She took us as far as Fishing Bridge, and then some Canyon friends of ours picked us up. After promising that we would get back to our village by that evening, they took us on a bit of a day hike to Stormy Point. It was lovely, cold, and windy. As promised we were back by 6:45, but my relaxing day had turned into a day filled with exercise and adrenaline. I slept from 7:30 until 8:00 this morning, and I plan on doing little for the rest of the day.
Monday, July 6, 2009
The Newman-Sabate Expedition (to Electric Peak)
This weekend I climbed Electric Peak with my roommate Buddy Sabate. Buddy is in the corps of cadets at Virginia Tech, one of the two senior milatary colleges within a public state university (Can you guess what the other one is?). After eating Wednesday dinner in the Mammoth EDR (employee dining room), we hiked through a pretty valley (with an owl) to our campsite. Along the way we dropped our packs and took a small side trip to Cache Lake, which offered a great view of the mountain.
When we got to the camping area, we came across something we did not expect: The 15-or-20-foot-wide Gardner River. With no bridge across the trail, we began to look for fallen logs. A couple hundred yards upstream we found nothing across the river, but a promising-looking log fifty feet from the water. We carried it over, stood it up like the flag at Iwo Jima, and let it fall across the river. Unfortunately, the log that we could carry was a log that could not carry us; it was sagging enough that we would not be able to walk across it without the water coming over the tops of our boots. Meanwhile, the group staying at the adjacent campsite was on the opposite shore just watching us like we were the evening’s entertainment. We ended up just taking off our boots and fording the river at the trail. The water was swift, knee-deep, and icy, making each of our first river fords an overall unpleasant experience (but at least an interesting one). We later found a couple of satisfactory logs laid across the river near our downstream campsite; we added a few more and stayed dry during our other three crossings.
After a tasty sausage and rice dinner (I was unable to finish my half of the seven cups of rice) we retired, woke up the next morning, and climbed the mountain. We ascended via the southern (left) ridge in two and a half hours – pretty good time. The trail distance from base to summit was only about four miles, but we gained over 3000 feet, along with a wonderful view. (Near the top, we saw a black shoe that someone had dropped. I was going to pick it up if no one else did, but an off-duty ranger ended up getting it.) After relaxing on the highest point in the Gallatin Mountain Range, we descended, broke camp, and went home.
When I got back and told my friend Jonathon that I climbed the mountain he asked, “Did you find a black shoe?” I found him the phone number for her ranger station and am yet to hear where things have gone from there.
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
News
Friday, June 26, 2009
Adventures galore
I’ve made a huge mistake.
In preparation for our most recent weekend I packed my backpack in a bit of a hurry. James and I left Canyon in the late morning and arrived at our Thorofare TH (Trail Head) at 1:15. It was at that point that I realized that I left my camera at home. I regretted it immediately and continue to regret my huge mistake. I was unable to photograph the wolf-prints and bear-prints that we saw all over our trail, and I was unable to capture the beautiful scenery on “film.” The hike was breathtaking once we entered the forest, but it was hard to appreciate during our journey to our campsite. James and I were attacked by Yellowstone’s most vicious animal – the mosquito – on our way to the campsite. This hindrance made breaks impossible, so we consequently made our best time yet.
Still, the lakeside campsite was breathtaking. I felt wonderful after taking a nap, and I built my first ever fire that allowed us to make S’mores.
In other news:
James and I utilized our status as Xanterra employees to take the “Wake Up to Wildlife” bus tour with our friends Becky and Mary Kathryn. The scenery was stunning, and the quality time with friends was absolutely wonderful. We saw loads of bison, a small pack of wolves from very far away, and some pronghorn. No moose.
James, our Michigan friend Katy, and a recent Rice graduate hiked to Observation Peak on Wednesday before work. They had the pleasure? of seeing a Grizzly bear from the trail, which made me (secretly) grateful that I decided to sleep in.
Tuesday, June 23, 2009
Sporks?
Sunday, June 21, 2009
Fairy Creek Trail
This past weekend (Thursday and Friday), Hilary and I went on our third backpacking adventure and our first outside the Canyon area. I’ve been choosing harder trails, but the hikes have been getting easier; Hilary is quickly acclimating and on her way to becoming a mountain woman, and I’m getting back into the swing of things. We walked ten miles on the first day (with a 1000 foot elevation gain) and seven miles on the second day, mostly on the Fairy Creek Trail.
We saw Fairy Falls, Spray Geyser, and Imperial Geyser on Thursday and spent the night in the almost oxymoronic Little Firehole Meadow (in the background of shown photo). The grassy expanse, named after the Firehole River, has been our favorite campsite thus far.
The following day we continued on the Fairy Creek Trail, leaving the Firehole River and meeting back up with it as it spilt over Mystic Falls before sweeping round the “fireholes” of the Upper Geyser Basin.
The Fairy Creek Trail ended at Biscuit Basin, home of the clear blue Sapphire Pool. We continued on a boardwalk through the Upper Geyser Basin, where we got to see eruptions of Grand Geyser, Beehive Geyser, and Old Faithful, amongst many other “thermal features.”
Along the way, we also encountered various wildlife. In addition to bear tracks on the trail, there was a buffalo next to Imperial Geyser and a deer leaping across a stream next to our path. At Fairy Falls we made a marmot friend, though we only realized his identity after the fact.
Also, many geographic features of Yellowstone are still unnamed, so as an explorer and adventurer I took it upon myself to christen the lake we encountered at the highest point on our trail "Loch James Everett Newman."
After completing our hike, we got a ride back to Canyon Village from a nice married couple who called themselves Doug and Lorraine. The pair met when they were college students working in the park in the 1960s. After graduating they got married; Doug worked for NASA for thirty-something years, and he is now an adjunct professor of mathematics at William and Mary. Now that they are “semi-retired,” they have returned to Yellowstone this summer and last, working in the Mammoth dining room and gift shop. Getting to ride with them and talk to them was a lot of fun.
As usual, Hilary took some great pictures during the hike, which I have posted on flickr (link to the right). This new batch of photos is particularly good.
Sunday, June 14, 2009
Seven Mile Hole Addendum
A couple of things I would like to add to Hilary’s entry regarding our hike:
I enjoyed hearing the gentle roar of the river from our campsite, as well as getting to see the canyon from a different (and beautiful) perspective.
Though parts of the hike were challenging, the scenery was wonderful along the way. When we stopped to catch our breath two-thirds of the way out, we sang and played the ukulele against the backdrop of the canyon.
On the way back, we made tasty pancakes for dinner (on the upside-down lid of my pot) across the canyon from Silver Cord Cascade (pictured). The creek several meters upstream of the then-invisible waterfall was our water source on our Ribbon Lake trip, and I was glad to finally see Silver Cord on this hike.
We had collected our water from the mighty Yellowstone River, which I thought was just so cool. We had some water left when we returned, so I asked our friends, “Who wants to drink some water from the Yellowstone River?” Hilary reminded me, “All of Canyon’s water comes from the Yellowstone River.”
Friday, June 12, 2009
Second Hike
Hilary Mills Hazel wrote this blog entry.
So James blogged all about our relaxing “weekend” last week, but we decided that it was high time that we went on another backpacking trip. After much deliberation, and three hours in the backcountry office planning out our entire summer, James decided that we should go to Seven Mile Hole. By going to this particular campsite we would be camping inside the canyon, right next to the Yellowstone River.
I was a little bit apprehensive about this trip after such an experience two we
ekends ago, but I was still up for it.
When we arrived at the trailhead, James told me that it would be basically flat up until the drop into the canyon.
Mostly flat.
Right away it was hilly, and then it was cliffy. We lost our trail at one point kind of near the end of our trip, and had to hunt around
until we found it. After three prospective trailheads, we finally found one that was obviously a trail. We followed it for about ¾ of a mile, but were dismayed to discover that we took the wrong fork in the road.
We backtracked, and finally found our campsite.
Once we arrived we set up camp and made our meal. Two other lost hikers found us, and we pointed them back up the hill to the fork.
I slept more warmly than I did last trip, and had an altogether better time. The area was very lovely, and we were very close to the river, which was very fascinating. Nevertheless, I was a bit bored by midday and decided that I would rather leave late a day early than leave early in the morning on the intended day.
After fighting my way out of the Canyon, I agreed with James. It really was mostly flat once we got out.
Monday, June 8, 2009
Snow!
It snowed yesterday at Canyon Lodge! (in June!) I watched it cover the ground and the trees from the cafeteria window as I served breakfast and lunch. Though there have been scattered piles of snow lying around leftover from past snowfalls (as seen in a previously posted picture of Canyon Lodge), this is the first time here that we have experienced any new snow, so fresh and soft and falling right in front of us. Hilary took some good pictures of it, which I have put on flickr (link to the right).
Friday, June 5, 2009
The Washburn Expedition
Hilary and I had Wednesday and Thursday off this week. When I told her that it was supposed to rain both days and that it was supposed to freeze at night, she told me she wanted to skip backpacking this time. Secretly relieved at her resolve to stay in, I told her that if she didn’t want to go, I suppose I wouldn’t mind sitting this one out.
For whatever reason (but probably because of several early morning shifts), Hilary wanted to begin her weekend by sleeping in. I decided to carpe the diem and fill in for a tired coworker, so I got up early to serve breakfast in the cafeteria. I don’t know why I like it so much, but I particularly enjoy serving breakfast. Getting to serve it with my Michigan friends was a bonus and a pleasant surprise.
Afterward, Hilary and I ate lunch, did laundry, and watched The Italian Job (which I thoroughly enjoyed) while it rained outside.
We get to ride on tour buses for free as employees, so we decided to go on "The Washburn Expedition" today, named after the Washburn Expedition. We rode in the same nifty type of bus we took to get here on day one, making a loop around much of the northern half of Yellowstone. We saw a bighorn sheep, a distant black bear, several pronghorns, and many bison, along with three waterfalls and many beautiful hills, mountains, and meadows. Along the way, we visited Mammoth Hot Springs, which make attractive terraces by depositing bits of limestone as the water flows.
In other news:
I have posted photographs from our first hike and from today's bus tour.
Hilary has her “Greetings from Texas” postcard from Erin proudly displayed on her wall.
We have both recently decided that English muffins are one of the best foods on the planet and have been eating them at every meal.
Hilary was yawning as I was writing this entry and apologized for being “so yawny.”
I just bought a wonderful National Geographic topographic map of Yellowstone that has all of the backcountry trails. I love it and have already spent about an hour studying it.
Wednesday, June 3, 2009
Identities
I worked my first shift as server Sunday evening at the Stir Fry station. The best part of serving is getting to talk to the guests.
My favorite interaction was with a stocky, bearded man who approached my station with fervor for stir fry. Noticing that he was scrutinizing my three sauces, I said, “We have sesame ginger, sweet & sour, and teriyaki sauces, if you were wondering their identities.” “Identities,” he laughed, “I like the way you talk.” After going back to the front of the calf to get a tray, he returned still laughing, “You’re killing me . . . identities.”
Thirty minutes later a woman came and starting looking at my food. She pointed and asked in a European accent, “What are those?” I told her, “They’re egg rolls – little fried things with vegetables inside. They’re pretty good.” After pausing for a few seconds she said, “I don’t like vegetables,” and abruptly walked away.
Tuesday, June 2, 2009
First Hike
This being my first hike, and being with James Everett Newman, I did not want to skimp too much on the weight of my pack. The bag started out heavy (for me), and just kept getting heavier.
A few miles later, it was time to slap some moleskin on my feet.
Still later, I started to notice the burning on my hips as my backpack continued to rub me raw.
Then James Everett Newman offered to carry mine as well as his, and manfully carried both for the last three miles of our trek.
My legs hurt, my lungs hurt, and so far I felt pretty miserable. Then we passed a beautiful view of the canyon that took my breath away. My breath is taken away all the time at this altitude, but this was different.
Despite the not-all-together stellar start to my backpacking career, it sure was worth it.
Also . . . James had a blast.
Friday, May 29, 2009
The Calf
*I’ve made several friends from Michigan who all refer to soda as “pop,” which entertains me. I am also very amused when they point out where in Michigan they live using their hand (because most of Michigan resembles a mitten). I also take great pleasure in their pronunciation of “Oregon” as “or-uh-gone.”
Tuesday, May 26, 2009
The Canyon
After dinner last night, we went for a walk to see our area’s main attraction: the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone. Only a couple of miles from the lodge, the canyon is gorgeous, complete with the 308-foot-tall Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River.
On the way back, our group stopped and had a fun impromptu snowball fight - a rare treat for a Texan.